What are the benefits of exfoliation or Acne, Dehydration, Aging, and Pigmentation skin types?
The concept of stimulating the skin by exfoliation is not a new concept. It is one of the oldest skin treatments developed and over the years different implements and ingredients have been used to exfoliate.
Hydroxy Acids is one of the popular method for exfoliation. The era of Hydroxy Acids began in the 1990’s when there was a surge of popularity for their beneficial effects on skin, they were actually discovered in the early 1970’s. When doctors found that certain naturally-occurring nontoxic substances called Alpha Hydroxy Acids, found in edible fruits and vegetables, had profound beneficial effects on the skin.
For Acne Skin: We know that there is an overproduction of sebum and dead cells that binds together in the follicle causing a blockage. This is retained further because in acne skin, there is less of the enzyme cholesterol sulfatase due to fewer lamellar granules. It is the lamellar granules that stimulate the enzyme to dissolve the NMF, allowing the cells to detach. Creating a condition known as Retention Hyperkeratosis. Hydroxy Acids mimic the enzymes in lamellar granules, dissolve the NMF and allow the cells to detach therefore clearing the congestion in the follicle. They will also dissolve the desmosome protein linkages causing a burst in skin exfoliation.
For Dehydration Skin: Lack of moisture in the Stratum Corneum leads to gaps in the cellular barrier. Moisture evaporates from below, which then leads to a dehydrated skin. Clients attempt to overcome this by over-moisturizing which is literally sticking the old cells down and this leads to a dull, uneven skin texture. Hydroxy Acids will take off the old cells and stimulate new cells full of moisture to be brought to the surface.
For Aging Skin: Cell production slows down as we age. So as the journey from the Stratum Germinativum to the Stratum Corneum takes longer, it means the cells are retained on the surface for a longer period of time getting drier and duller. Epidermal renewal varies from 12-19 days (teens) to 28-35 days (mid-life) and up to 90 days in maturity.
For Pigmentation Skin: Hydroxy Acids will shed the pigmented cells more quickly, so they are great combined with ingredients that suppress the melanin production such as Bearberry, Mulberry Extract, Kiwi, Phytic Acid and Licorice. Lactic Acid at a 5% is also a tyrosinase inhibitor.
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