Facial 101

Steaming the Skin by the Vaporizer Method
Steaming the skin should be regarded as part of the cleansing process and is a natural way of activating the circulation, thus softening the skin, relaxing and dilating the follicles. It may also induce slight perspiration by stimulating soporiferous glands, which has a cleansing action on the skin and assists in the elimination of waste. The warmth and moisture facilitates the use of the water-soluble cleansing products and leaves the skin hydrated.

Exfoliations

A defoliant is any agent that removes dead skin cells from the surface stratum corneum to reveal the newer, smoother skin underneath. When we exfoliate we automatically cause skin renewal as the stratum germinativum is stimulated to push new cells upward towards the surface of the skin. Exfoliation has many benefits: it gives a smoother, softer skin texture; it removes dry, flaky patches resulting in a finer more translucent skin; it helps to clear congestion; and it creates a moist healthy glow to the skin. It is a cosmetic process based on abrasive, biological, enzymatic or acidic products which removes dead surfaces cells.
Abrasive Process:
1.Slough off dead skin cells mechanically
2.Grains/granules (e.g., scrub), brush, buff puff pads

Rubbing Peel:
1.Friction massage rolls off cream & dead cells
2.Gum or Wax resin

Enzyme:
1.Digest the protein of dead skin cells
2.Papain, Bromelain, pancreatic enzymes

Hydroxy Acids (Alpha and Beta):
1.Dissolves intercellular glue that holds stratum corneum cells together
2.Lactic, Glycolic, Salicylic, Citric

Hydroxy Acid/Vitamin Combination:
1.Dissolves dead skin cells
2.Retinol with lactic and salicylic acid

The International Dermal Institute’s Massage

The International Dermal Institute’s massage is an excellent method of introducing the client to the benefits of skin care, as well as being a healthy and relaxing procedure. There are many benefits to an International Dermal Institute Massage:
1.It increases supply of oxygen and nutrients to skin and muscles
2.It stimulates removal of waste products from the tissues
3.It stimulates glandular activity of the skin
4.it improves cellular activity
5.It improves the texture of the skin
6.It relieves tension and fatigue
7.It promotes total relaxation

The Use of Masques in a Skin Treatment

International skin treatments ALWAYS feature a masque preparation at some stage of the treatment, usually as one of the concluding applications. Masques are blended to have a concentrated and specific effect on the skin, and different ingredients and formulations give the Skin Therapist hundreds of alternatives. Masques are also recommended to the client to use at home on a twice-weekly basis, and are an important step in everyone’s skin care regime. Depending on their different formulations, masques have very different effects, and if the skin is varied in its needs, we often use more than one masque on each client. This would mean applying a different masque to various areas of the face and throat, depending on the different skin conditions across the face.
Every product manufacturer has several different masques in their lines, and your product manufacturer will teach you the specific actions of each line that you carry in the skin treatment center. However, masques fall into one of three categories, and it is important to understand the general actions of each type:
1.Setting Masques (generally clay/mud based):
a.Absorb excess oil & dermis, draws out impurities. Slightly exfoliating.
2.Non-Setting Masques (generally gel/cream based):
a.Cools & refreshes the skin, helps to control specific problems
3.Specialty Masques (various ingredients, generally for professional use only):
a.Thermal & exothermic (generate heat, warm the tissue, help the cream underneath absorb better, not for sensitive skin)
b.Peel-off: based on waxes or gum, apply wet on skin & form occlusive layer, promotes sweating, help increase the amount surface of moisture, not suitable for sensitive skin
c.Paraffin wax – ideal for aging, dry, or dehydrated skin. Applied wet, as it harling, it creates vacuum effect.
d.Contour (can put base masque underneath) – help firming effect, reduces oedema (buff eyes), cooling, helps to infuse what is underneath. For aging, mature, or sensitive skin.
e.Collogen sheet – apply damping to skin, let sit under steam for 40 minutes, 100% free dry collagen, collagen breaks down into amino acid, & absorb by the skin. For dehydrated or matured skin.
f.Oatmeal – ideal for all skin type, helps strengthen the immune system of skin, soothing. For sensitive, sensitized, eczema, psoriasis, sunburn, or acne skin.

High Frequency Current

The TESLA current is an alternating radio wave which uses the surface of the skin for transmission. It does not effect muscle stimulation or chemical changes in the tissues.
A series of gas filled electrodes are inserted into the conductor handle of the unit. The electrode is filled with either ARGON gas (glows violet), which gives a “sparking” stronger action, or NEON gas (glows orange), which is milder. Both gases have similar effects, but argon is used on acne-type lesions, where neon is used on general oily-type skins or to create warmth in a localized area for improved product penetration.
The TESLA current is conducted to the gas where it ignites. The gas is inert, and in a vacuum so it is quite safe and stable. Once the gas ignites, light energy is given off which forms electricity around the glass electrode. When the oxygen, naturally present in the air around the electrode, is electrified it forms ozone gas. Simply, high frequency forms ozone gas close to the skin surface, which has a germicidal, healing and drying effect.
High Frequency may be used on the following skin conditions:
1.Acne-type lesions using argon gas electrode for a “sparking” treatment
2.Oily skins with overall congestion using neon gas electrode for drying and germicidal effects.
3.To aid penetration of a treatment cream/ampoule by increasing blood flow in certain areas where infrared or massage would stimulate the entire face.
4.To assist in massage for an aging skin using the indirect method.

Direct High Frequency
Effects:
1.Germicidal
2.Drying
3.Healing
4.Effluvation

Indications for Use:
1.Acne Lesions
2.Oily, congested skin
3.Soborrhea

Contraindications:
1.Epileptics
2.Diabetics
3.Asthmatics
4.Excessive fillings
5.High blood pressure
6.Pregnancy
7.Metal implants-pacemaker
8.Highly nervous clients

The Action of Moisturizers

Moisturizers are applied at the end of the skin treatment to protect the skin against pollution, sunlight and grime. They also help seal in the moisture of the skin, and help prevent dryness and dehydration caused by evaporation.
Dehydration of the skin is one of the most common skin problems.
Moisture is lost from the skin through evaporation from the deeper layers of the epidermis.
When the surface is moisturized, the formula helps the skin cells bind together, and form a more even protective barrier against this moisture loss. The skin’s moisture cannot pass through this barrier easily, and the skin appears smoother and more moist and supple. If the skin is naturally oilier, then the natural sebum will also act to prevent some moisture loss. It follows that the oilier the skin is, naturally, the lighter moisturizing protection it needs. We therefore, recommend light oil-free and oil controlling lotions for the oilier skins, and slightly richer and oilier creams to the more naturally dry skins.
Moisturizers have become more sophisticated over the years and there are now many types, such as oil-free, oil0based, oil controlling, exfoliating, anhydrous, occlusive and humectants. Always make sure that the moisturizer is applied to a damp skin, so boner and concentrate should be sprayed first before the moisturizer. This gives a much better re-hydrations effect.