Exfoliation Benefits

Exfoliation Benefits:

An exfoliant is any agent that removes dead skin cells from the surface Stratum Corneum to reveal the newer smoother skin underneath. The benefits of exfoliation are fairly obvious:
• Removes dull, dry skin
•Smoother, softer skin
•Reduces lines, pigmentation, hyperkeratoris
•Stimulates cell renewal & turnover rates
•Facilitates hydration and absorption of ingredients

How do Hydroxy Acids & Exfoliation work?

While pH and concentration are both important factors to consider we do know that when the concentration of AHA is less than 3% it only penetrates a few layers of the SC. In order to penetrate to about 20 layers deep you need to use concentrations above 10%. A low pH is responsible for much of the action attributed to AHAs. It is not recommended to ever use a pH lower than 3.0 in professional treatments (and 3.5pH for retail) as anything lower causes cell clumping.

AHAs improve skin thickness, firmness, wrinkles, stimulate and cell renewal and cell turnover time. Prolonged use of AHAs on skin show after 20wks of use that both glycolic and lactic acid are less effective at increasing cell renewal and the number of shed cells. But skin firmness, thickness and improvement to wrinkles continues beyond 26 weeks. Therefore, the mechanism of action cannot be solely attributed to stimulating cell renewal. Scientists are studying different mechanisms of action to better understand them.

Cell cohesions and pH changes account for the initial bust of shedding of SC cells when AHAs are used. It has been suggested that AHAs act as chelating agents, decreasing the local calcium ion concentrations from cation dependent cell adhesion proteins; this may account for a weakening of the desmosome and allow for cell sloughing.

The low pH may also disrupt the required pH environment for the enzymes involved in cell sloughing differentiation and proliferation.

Collagen

Collagen and elastin proteins are the primary fibrious proteins that comprise the dermis. Collagen, one of the strongest natural proteins gives skin durability and resiliency; it accounts for approximately 75% of the skin’s dry weight and provides both tensile strength and elasticity. There are over 20 different types of collagen, of which 11 are found in the dermis. In adults collagen type I, III and V account for the greatest proportion of the collagen. Type I makes up 80-90% while Type III is 8-12%. Type V collagen is interspersed into fibrils with both type I and III collagen.

Elastin

Elastin fibers of the dermis provide recoil properties to the dermis and surround and surround the collagenbundles. There is both a fibrous and matrix component to elastin. A sugar-protein forms a template on which the elastin protein is deposited. Elastin fibers closest to the epidermis are considered to be the immature fibers and those in the deepest part of the dermis are considered to be the mature fibers. Unfortunately, exposure to sunlight, inflammation and aging all degrade elastin resulting in a condition known as skin elastois, a hallmark of photoaged skin. Under the microscope elastosis of an accumulation of abnormal elastic fibers; to the visible eye it is characterized by slack skin with wrinkles.

The benefit of exfoliation for Acne skin:

We know that there is an overproduction of sebum and dead cells that binds together in the follicle causing a blockage. This is retained further because in acne skin, there is less of the enzyme cholesterol sulfatase due to fewer lamellar granules. It is the lamellar granules that stimulate the enzyme to dissolve the NMF, allowing the cells to detach. Creating a condition known as granules, dissolve the NMF and allow the cells to detach therefore clearing the congestion in the follicle. They will also dissolve the desmosome protein linkages causing a burst in skin exfoliation.

The benefit of exfoliation for Dehydration skin:

Lack of moisture in the Stratum Corneum leads to gaps in the cellular barrier. Moisture evaporates from below, which then leads to a dehydrated skin. Clients attempt to overcome this by over-moisturizing which is literally sticking the old cells down and this leads to a dull, uneven skin texture. Hydroxy Acids will take off the old cells and stimulate new cells full of moisture to be brought to the surface.

The benefit of exfoliation for Aging skin:

Cell production slows down as we age. So as the journey from the Stratum Germinativum to the Stratum Corneum takes longer, it means the cells are retained on the surface for a longer period of time getting drier and duller. Epidermal renewal varies from 12-19 days (teens) to 28-35 days (mid-life) and up to 90 days in maturity.

The benefit of exfoliation for Acne skin:

Hydroxy Acids will shed the pigmented cells more quickly, so they are great combined with ingredients that suppress the melanin production such as Bearberry, Mulberry Extract, Kiwi, Phytic Acid and Licorice. Lactic acid at a 5% is also a tyrosinase inhibitor.

Facial 101

Facial 101

Steaming the Skin by the Vaporizer Method
Steaming the skin should be regarded as part of the cleansing process and is a natural way of activating the circulation, thus softening the skin, relaxing and dilating the follicles. It may also induce slight perspiration by stimulating soporiferous glands, which has a cleansing action on the skin and assists in the elimination of waste. The warmth and moisture facilitates the use of the water-soluble cleansing products and leaves the skin hydrated.

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What are the benefits of exfoliation or Acne, Dehydration, Aging, and Pigmentation skin types?

men facial care
Facial Skin Exfoliation

What are the benefits of exfoliation or Acne, Dehydration, Aging, and Pigmentation skin types?

The concept of stimulating the skin by exfoliation is not a new concept.  It is one of the oldest skin treatments developed and over the years different implements and ingredients have been used to exfoliate.

Hydroxy Acids is one of the popular method for exfoliation.  The era of Hydroxy Acids began in the 1990’s when there was a surge of popularity for their beneficial effects on skin, they were actually discovered in the early 1970’s.  When doctors found that certain naturally-occurring nontoxic substances called Alpha Hydroxy Acids, found in edible fruits and vegetables, had profound beneficial effects on the skin.

For Acne Skin: We know that there is an overproduction of sebum and dead cells that binds together in the follicle causing a blockage.  This is retained further because in acne skin, there is less of the enzyme cholesterol sulfatase due to fewer lamellar granules.  It is the lamellar granules that stimulate the enzyme to dissolve the NMF, allowing the cells to detach.  Creating a condition known as Retention Hyperkeratosis.  Hydroxy Acids mimic the enzymes in lamellar granules, dissolve the NMF and allow the cells to detach therefore clearing the congestion in the follicle.  They will also dissolve the desmosome protein linkages causing a burst in skin exfoliation. Continue reading “What are the benefits of exfoliation or Acne, Dehydration, Aging, and Pigmentation skin types?”

Tips to keep Skin Moisture Hydration

Skin Moisture and hydrationTips to keep Skin Moisture Hydration
1. Drinking two liters of water daily is vital for a healthy body. Many skin conditions can be improved with increased water intake.
2. Consumption of more than eight alcoholic beverages per week can contribute to skin dryness and bodily dehydration.
3. One’s experiencing flakiness, tightness or obvious dryness should increase their water intake, adjust to a richer moisturizer and use a moisturizing masque at least three times a week.
4. One should use an SPF 15 sunscreen over the face daily to prevent incidental sun damage. A sunblock should be applied to the body if sun exposure is anticipated, and the hands should always be protected by an SPF 15 if they are exposed while driving in sunlight.
5. If one uses sun beds or tans regularly, this may be the cause of significant sun damage.

Oil Secretion
1. Oily shine may indicate overuse of exfoliants, dehydration and/or overactive sebaceous glands. Focus on home care products that can regulate oil production without stripping the skin’s natural moisture barrier.
2. For one’s experiencing breakouts, check for comedogenic ingredients in their skin and hair care regimens, as well as their make-up.

Skin Diseases and Disorders

Skin problems and diseasesSkin Diseases and Disorders

Herpes Simplex: caused by a rival infection, therefore it is highly contagious. It is characterized by erythema, pustules and vesicles (watery blisters) often grouped in a cluster around the mouth (herpes labialis). It is a recurring disease, and the skin treatment should be postponed until the condition recesses and two weeks after the lesions have disappeared. Can be spread to the fingers (herpes whitlow), eyes (corneal herpes) or genitals.

Impetigo Contagiosa: this is a spreading staphylococcal or streptococcal infection of the skin presenting a thin blister or oozing erosion which grows over several days into a honey colored crust. It is common in children and often spreads from the nostrils, which form a reservoir of bacteria for infection. Scratching and other members of the family are frequently affected. The condition is common during the summer months. In tropical countries sessions may be widespread and severe epidemics occur. It clears rapidly with antibiotic ointment.

Infected Acne: features are seborrhea (giving skin an oily appearance), comedones (blackheads), papules, pustules, nodules and cysts. There are different grades of acne (degrees of severity). A mild acne condition with comedones and one or two papules or pustules can be treated in the skin treatment center. However a more severe acne vulgaris or cystic acne with many comedones, papules, pustules, nodules and cysts may need medical treatment prescribed by a doctor or dermatologist. The Skin Therapist can still treat the inflammation and remove comedones and provide homecare advice.

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The skin has seven functions in the body

Skin functionsThe skin not only gives us our appearance and shape, it also serves other important functions in the body:

Protection: Through the fat cells in the subcutaneous tissue the skin protects the body against blows and falls. The Stratum Corneum acts as a barrier against bacterial invasion. The Stratum Germinativum produces melanin pigment as a natural protection from ultraviolet light.

Regulation: controls our body temperature so that it maintains our internal heat regardless of environmental climate. It does this through the excretion of sweat from the sudoriferous glands, and the dilation of the blood vessels in the dermis.

Sensation: Because the skin contains so many tactile nerve endings, the brain can be made aware of the stimuli of pain, heat, and cold in any part of the body.

Absorption: The skin is able to absorb some oil or fat-based substances on a topical level, but deeper penetration is confined to either medication or application of a water-based substance by means of galvanic current. Penetration of cosmetic preparations is restricted to the epidermal layer only.

Excretion: the eccrine and apocrine glands excrete perspiration and sweat for temperature regulation.
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