The Use of Masques in a Skin Treatment

International skin treatments ALWAYS feature a masque preparation at some stage of the treatment, usually as one of the concluding applications. Masques are blended to have a concentrated and specific effect on the skin, and different ingredients and formulations give the Skin Therapist hundreds of alternatives. Masques are also recommended to the client to use at home on a twice-weekly basis, and are an important step in everyone’s skin care regime. Depending on their different formulations, masques have very different effects, and if the skin is varied in its needs, we often use more than one masque on each client. This would mean applying a different masque to various areas of the face and throat, depending on the different skin conditions across the face.

Every product manufacturer has several different masques in their lines, and your product manufacturer will teach you the specific actions of each line that you carry in the skin treatment center. However, masques fall into one of three categories, and it is important to understand the general actions of each type:

Setting Masques (generally clay/mud based): Absorb excess oil & dermis, draws out impurities. Slightly exfoliating.Non-Setting Masques (generally gel/cream based): Cools & refreshes the skin, helps to control specific problemsSpecialty Masques (various ingredients, generally for professional use only): Thermal & exothermic (generate heat, warm the tissue, help the cream underneath absorb better, not for sensitive skin)Peel-off: based on waxes or gum, apply wet on skin & form occlusive layer, promotes sweating, help increase the amount surface of moisture, not suitable for sensitive skinParaffin wax – ideal for aging, dry, or dehydrated skin. Applied wet, as it harling, it creates vacuum effect.Contour (can put base masque underneath) – help firming effect, reduces oedema (buff eyes), cooling, helps to infuse what is underneath. For aging, mature, or sensitive skin.Collogen sheet – apply damping to skin, let sit under steam for 40 minutes, 100% free dry collagen, collagen breaks down into amino acid, & absorb by the skin. For dehydrated or matured skin.Oatmeal – ideal for all skin type, helps strengthen the immune system of skin, soothing. For sensitive, sensitized, eczema, psoriasis, sunburn, or acne skin.

The Action of Moisturizers

Moisturizers are applied at the end of the skin treatment to protect the skin against pollution, sunlight and grime. They also help seal in the moisture of the skin, and help prevent dryness and dehydration caused by evaporation.

Dehydration of the skin is one of the most common skin problems.
Moisture is lost from the skin through evaporation from the deeper layers of the epidermis.
When the surface is moisturized, the formula helps the skin cells bind together, and form a more even protective barrier against this moisture loss. The skin’s moisture cannot pass through this barrier easily, and the skin appears smoother and more moist and supple. If the skin is naturally oilier, then the natural sebum will also act to prevent some moisture loss. It follows that the oilier the skin is, naturally, the lighter moisturizing protection it needs. We therefore, recommend light oil-free and oil controlling lotions for the oilier skins, and slightly richer and oilier creams to the more naturally dry skins.
Moisturizers have become more sophisticated over the years and there are now many types, such as oil-free, oil0based, oil controlling, exfoliating, anhydrous, occlusive and humectants. Always make sure that the moisturizer is applied to a damp skin, so boner and concentrate should be sprayed first before the moisturizer. This gives a much better re-hydrations effect.

Dry, dehydrated skin?

Dry, dehydrated skin?

What can I do about my dry, dehydrated skin?

Dry, dehydrated skin can be a temporary problem ? one you experience only in winter, for example ? or a lifelong concern.

Dry skin, also called xerosis, is a very common problem in modern life, affecting people off all ages, even infants. And scientists agree ? because of a sharp decline in the Stratum corneum lipids (lipids are fats that are essential for the structure and function of living cells), especially the significant drop in ceramides (one of the more important structural components of the lipid barrier), by the time we reach age 40, our skin will almost certainly be dry and/or dehydrated.

However, some people who experience the trials of a dry skin condition before they reach this time in their life. An increasingly stressful lifestyle coupled with continual exposure to the sun, wind and chemicals in the environment contribute to dry dehydrated skin in people of all ages.

What is dry, dehydrated skin?

A defoliant is any agent that removes dead skin cells from the surface stratum corneum to reveal the newer, smoother skin underneath. When we exfoliate we automatically cause skin renewal as the stratum germinativum is stimulated to push new cells upward towards the surface of the skin. Exfoliation has many benefits: it gives a smoother, softer skin texture; it removes dry, flaky patches resulting in a finer more translucent skin; it helps to clear congestion; and it creates a moist healthy glow to the skin. It is a cosmetic process based on abrasive, biological, enzymatic or acidic products which removes dead surfaces cells.

Dry sink, or alipoid skin, generally refers to skin that is lacking oil, whereas dehydrated skin is characterized b the lack of moisture in the Stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. Typically, cells that comprise the deepest layer of the epidermis have about 80% water content, while cells of the Stratum corneum are about 10% water. Anything below 10% is perceived as dehydrated.

Both dry and dehydrated skin is often irritated, inflamed and itchy, and it is generally worse in areas with relatively few sebaceous (oil) glands such as the arms, legs, and torso, as well as the cheeks and eye area.

There is also a widespread misconception that dehydrated skin is the opposite of oily skin. ?Dehydrated? refers to lack of moisture (not a lack of oil), while ?oily? refers to levels of sebum or oil on skin. While adequate sebum does help maintain water levels on skin, oily skin can be dehydrated. Dehydrated skin may lack water only in the outermost layers of the epidermis while maintaining normal levels in the deeper layer.

Other symptoms of dry skin can include a feeling of tightness or tautness, especially after showering, bathing or swimming, skin that feels and looks rough rather than smooth, slight to severe flaking or scaling, fine lines, cracks that can sometimes bleed, and severe redness.

The tope 5 causes of dry, dehydrated skin

These sources of dry, dehydrated skin are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable when combined with lifestyle changes and when under the care of a professional.

Abrasive Process:
1.Intrinsic Aging

Intrinsic aging, also known as healthy aging, is the normal process of physical change over time that is more about genetics than lifestyle. (Lifestyle-induced aging is known as premature aging.) This process begins in our mid-20s, but, unlike premature aging induced by external factors, does not begin to show on our faces until decades later.

Dry, dehydrated skin is common in older skin, since the activity of the sebaceous glands in the skin tends to decrease with age, and the skin?s natural hydrators decline over the years. Aging also may cause blood flow to the skin to decrease, causing a drop in sebum production.


The loss of existing sebum (oil) is commonly caused by excessive bathing or showering, scrubbing, or the use of harsh soaps that dissolve the protective layer of sebum. Often times, dry skin can affect the hands, as those in health care of food preparation must frequently wash to rid their hands of potential germs.

3.Cold Weather and Low Humidity

Cod winds and low temperatures can dry out your skin, depriving it of balanced levels of sebum (oil) that keep skin lubricated. Without these oils, skin becomes dry, and is more prone to premature agin because of the lack of protective oils.

This goes for forced air heating as well. Warm, dry air acts like a giant sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches.

4.The Sun

The sun can also contribute to dry skin. Although many people only complain of dryness in the winter, others experience dry skin in the sun. Prolonged exposure to the sun causes water to evaporated from the skin, which is why skin that has been recently tanned or burned often requires more moisturization that areas that were not exposed.

While many of us are responsible enough to apply sunscreen at the beach or when we?re spending a long time outdoors, there is still not enough understanding that cumulative exposure to sun can also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walk outside and an occasional lunch outdoors can add up to dry, damages skin and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don?t see pink or red skin after being in the sun, that doesn?t mean that the damage hasn?t been done.

Summer activities, such as swimming, can also contribute to dryness, as chlorine in pools and salt in ocean water causes skin irritation.

Summer activities, such as swimming, can also contribute to dryness, as chlorine in pools and salt in ocean water causes skin irritation.

5. Lifestyle

Nutritionists say that those surviving on a litany of diet sodas and fat-free fad food items are missing out on vital, skin-friendly essential fatty acids (EFA) and fat-soluble vitamins. (And don?t forget that fat-free foods often substitute sugar with artificial sweeteners that can cause skin sensitivity.)

An EFA deficiency can result in skin problems such as chronic itching, dryness, scaling and thinning, and lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (prostaglandins are chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation). The lack of ?good? fats in our diets could also be contributing to the increase in the percentage of the population that suffers from psoriasis, eczema and dandruff.

A deficiency of the mineral Zinc, which plays a key role in wound healing and in the metabolism of fatty acids and vitamin A, can also affect the integrity of skin. Smoking can also have a drying effect on skin, as smoking inhibits the body?s ability to provide oxygen and nutrients to skin. Smoking drains skin (and the body) of vitamins A and C and restricts blood vessels (which equates to less blood flow) ? meaning smoking is somewhat like suffocating skin from the inside. And, an excess intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin.

Proper Treatment for Results

There are many steps you can take to help prevent or lessen the discomfort associated with dry, dehydrated skin. Professional skin treatments coupled with the right lifestyle choices are great ways to begin treating and relieving dry skin. An effective skin treatment for dry skin will include exfoliation to help prep skin to receive nourishing ingredients the use of emollients and hydrators to replenish skin, and vitamins to help smooth skin, stimulate collagen production and increase skin?s natural protective barrier.

1.Exfoliation helps remove dulling skin cells while improving penetration of beneficial ingredients. The use of electric brushes will also greatly enhance the penetration of the exfoliation ingredients.

2.Galvanic current can also be used to increase product penetration. This professional tool creates gentle electrical currents that work to push hydrating and replenishing ingredients deep into the layers of the epidermis.

3.Emollients (such as Shea butter and Organic Silicones) will help maintain soft, smooth, pliable skin and will act as a lubricant, helping to reduce flaking and moisture loss while improving appearance.

4.It has been scientifically proven that topically-applied vitamins do improve the health of skin. Vitamin A helps inhibit collagen breakdown while stimulating collagen production for more plump-looking skin, Vitamin B5 aids in wound healing and Vitamin E is an antioxidant that provides barrier protection while smoothing skin.

It is also imperative to recognize that the success of your skin treatments will be heavily influenced by your professionally prescribed at-home regimen and the wearing of sunscreen for anytime skin is exposed to daylight.

Research shows sunscreens formulated with antioxidant vitamins provide enhanced daylight protection against damaging UV light and free radicals. With this increased protection from antioxidant vitamins, there is no need to add more potentially-irritating sunscreen chemicals to create a higher SPF level.

Dermalogica’s Solar Defense System delivers this antioxidant technology through UV Smart Booster Technology, a microcapsule containing antioxidant vitamins that bursts upon contact with UV light, spilling the antioxidants onto skin, providing protection when it’s needed most.

Make sunscreen as much a part of your skin care regimen as cleansing and moisturizing. Apply at least a walnut-size amount of sunscreen to skin and neck before going out into the daylight, and after swimming or exercising, to impede the damage caused by UV light.

Also important is proper home skin care products and techniques. Do not use hot water when cleansing, don’t use excessive or abrasive movements (instead, go for gentle, upward circles), and stay away from products that contain artificial fragrances or colors.

Keep your surrounding temperature as moderate as possible, and never place any heat directly at you skin. The use of a humidifier will also help add moisture to surrounding air. And when in colder temperatures, use a protective salve or extra rich moisturizer containing Zinc Oxide, which helps soothe skin, provides anti-itch relief, moisturized and promotes skin repair.

Get mapped. Get results: Speak with you skin therapist about Face mapping, the skin analysis that breaks you skin down into 14 individual zones so that your condition can be effectively treated. Regardless of your needs, your skin therapist can accurately prescribe a regimen with Face Mapping that will effectively treat all areas of your skin.

After your Face mapping, you skin therapist will outline a home regimen for you to follow. This will help keep your skin its healthiest between professional treatments. Some of the products that may be suggested will include:

Essential Cleansing Solution
Extra Firming Booster
MultiVitamin Power Recovery masque
MultiVitamin Power Concentrate
MultiVitamin Power Firm (for eyes and lips area)
Super Rich Repair
Extra Rich FaceBlock SPF 30
MultiVitamin BodyBlock SPF 20

It’s also important to note that Dermalogica products are free of the following ingredients known for increasing skin dryness as well as skin sensitivity:

Artificial colors
Artificial fragrances
S.D. alcohol
Mineral Oil (skin sensitivity and congestion)
Lonolin (skin sensitivity and congestion)
PABA (found in sunscreens)

Jumpstart your healthy skin care regimen today! Ask your skin therapist for your free Face mapping analysis and your customized zone-by-zone prescription.

From Dermalogica

Exfoliation Benefits

Exfoliation Benefits:

An exfoliant is any agent that removes dead skin cells from the surface Stratum Corneum to reveal the newer smoother skin underneath. The benefits of exfoliation are fairly obvious:
• Removes dull, dry skin
•Smoother, softer skin
•Reduces lines, pigmentation, hyperkeratoris
•Stimulates cell renewal & turnover rates
•Facilitates hydration and absorption of ingredients

How do Hydroxy Acids & Exfoliation work?

While pH and concentration are both important factors to consider we do know that when the concentration of AHA is less than 3% it only penetrates a few layers of the SC. In order to penetrate to about 20 layers deep you need to use concentrations above 10%. A low pH is responsible for much of the action attributed to AHAs. It is not recommended to ever use a pH lower than 3.0 in professional treatments (and 3.5pH for retail) as anything lower causes cell clumping.

AHAs improve skin thickness, firmness, wrinkles, stimulate and cell renewal and cell turnover time. Prolonged use of AHAs on skin show after 20wks of use that both glycolic and lactic acid are less effective at increasing cell renewal and the number of shed cells. But skin firmness, thickness and improvement to wrinkles continues beyond 26 weeks. Therefore, the mechanism of action cannot be solely attributed to stimulating cell renewal. Scientists are studying different mechanisms of action to better understand them.

Cell cohesions and pH changes account for the initial bust of shedding of SC cells when AHAs are used. It has been suggested that AHAs act as chelating agents, decreasing the local calcium ion concentrations from cation dependent cell adhesion proteins; this may account for a weakening of the desmosome and allow for cell sloughing.

The low pH may also disrupt the required pH environment for the enzymes involved in cell sloughing differentiation and proliferation.


Collagen and elastin proteins are the primary fibrious proteins that comprise the dermis. Collagen, one of the strongest natural proteins gives skin durability and resiliency; it accounts for approximately 75% of the skin’s dry weight and provides both tensile strength and elasticity. There are over 20 different types of collagen, of which 11 are found in the dermis. In adults collagen type I, III and V account for the greatest proportion of the collagen. Type I makes up 80-90% while Type III is 8-12%. Type V collagen is interspersed into fibrils with both type I and III collagen.


Elastin fibers of the dermis provide recoil properties to the dermis and surround and surround the collagenbundles. There is both a fibrous and matrix component to elastin. A sugar-protein forms a template on which the elastin protein is deposited. Elastin fibers closest to the epidermis are considered to be the immature fibers and those in the deepest part of the dermis are considered to be the mature fibers. Unfortunately, exposure to sunlight, inflammation and aging all degrade elastin resulting in a condition known as skin elastois, a hallmark of photoaged skin. Under the microscope elastosis of an accumulation of abnormal elastic fibers; to the visible eye it is characterized by slack skin with wrinkles.

The benefit of exfoliation for Acne skin:

We know that there is an overproduction of sebum and dead cells that binds together in the follicle causing a blockage. This is retained further because in acne skin, there is less of the enzyme cholesterol sulfatase due to fewer lamellar granules. It is the lamellar granules that stimulate the enzyme to dissolve the NMF, allowing the cells to detach. Creating a condition known as granules, dissolve the NMF and allow the cells to detach therefore clearing the congestion in the follicle. They will also dissolve the desmosome protein linkages causing a burst in skin exfoliation.

The benefit of exfoliation for Dehydration skin:

Lack of moisture in the Stratum Corneum leads to gaps in the cellular barrier. Moisture evaporates from below, which then leads to a dehydrated skin. Clients attempt to overcome this by over-moisturizing which is literally sticking the old cells down and this leads to a dull, uneven skin texture. Hydroxy Acids will take off the old cells and stimulate new cells full of moisture to be brought to the surface.

The benefit of exfoliation for Aging skin:

Cell production slows down as we age. So as the journey from the Stratum Germinativum to the Stratum Corneum takes longer, it means the cells are retained on the surface for a longer period of time getting drier and duller. Epidermal renewal varies from 12-19 days (teens) to 28-35 days (mid-life) and up to 90 days in maturity.

The benefit of exfoliation for Acne skin:

Hydroxy Acids will shed the pigmented cells more quickly, so they are great combined with ingredients that suppress the melanin production such as Bearberry, Mulberry Extract, Kiwi, Phytic Acid and Licorice. Lactic acid at a 5% is also a tyrosinase inhibitor.

Ten Superfoods for Age-Defying Beauty

Ten Superfoods for Age-Defying Beauty

Ten foods for age-defying beauty The benefits from eating healthy are endless. And, according to Dr. Nicholas Perricone, some foods can be eaten to help you look and age better!

Health Benefits Although many of these foods have reported medical benefits, remember at all times that if you have any type of health problem or physical symptom, do not self-diagnose or self-medicate-even if with a food or herb. Trust your medical professional first and foremost in this department. However, the 10 foods included here do have incredible health benefits. Continue reading “Ten Superfoods for Age-Defying Beauty”

Facial 101

Facial 101

Steaming the Skin by the Vaporizer Method
Steaming the skin should be regarded as part of the cleansing process and is a natural way of activating the circulation, thus softening the skin, relaxing and dilating the follicles. It may also induce slight perspiration by stimulating soporiferous glands, which has a cleansing action on the skin and assists in the elimination of waste. The warmth and moisture facilitates the use of the water-soluble cleansing products and leaves the skin hydrated.

Continue reading “Facial 101”

Excess Exfoliation

Facial Skin Care

Excess Exfoliation:

The down side to too much exfoliation

Over-exfoliation is the drawback and downside to having such great ingredients at our disposal. We know this has head to more environmentally sensitized skin and possibly aging. We may tell our clients to exfoliate 2-3 times a week, but they don’t listen to us because they like the way their skin feels after exfoliation. As a consumer we love how our skin looks after exfoliation – “I don’t care if my therapist says only 2X a week, I want to do it everyday, even if you tell me not to!”

But what happens if we are looking under a magnifying lamp? Have you looked at your skin in a magnifying lamp? We sacrifice the integrity of the epidermis which leads to sensitized skin.metic Chemists are aware of the problem so the latest research has been concentrating on looking for exfoliating ingredients to use that will exfoliate but can be used everyday without compromising the integrity of the skin.

Dangers of excessiDangers of excessive exfoliation (less wrinkles today could mean more wrinkles tomorrow). Removal of the outermost layer of the skin stimulates the cells in lower layers to grow and divide, causing the skin to thicken and thus diminishing visible signs of aging. The more you exfoliate the more cell divisions will occur in the lower skin layers. There is one problem though.

Normal human cells cannot divide indefinitely. Fibroblasts (a key type of cell in the skin) would divide about 50 times and then enter a so-called stage of senescence This “theory” of cell division is called the Hayflick Limit (after it’s discoverer Dr. Leonard Hayflick). His studies show that in this stage the cell is sluggish, inefficient, unresponsive to various signals from the body and unable to divide. Skin with many senescent cells is usually fragile, blotchy and easily wrinkled. Exoliation remains a valuable tool but if you overuse it, your skin may hit the Hayflick Limit. In recent years, researchers have discovered the molecular mechanism of the Hayflick Limit (it has to do with the area at the tips of the chromosomes called telomeres).

How to care for your skin with products…

Skin Care

For most of us who knows how to take care of our skins by eating right, exercising, wearing sun screen, etc.. We sometimes need help extra care for our skin. Here’s a short list of products that you can use to take care of your skin from Dermalogica is the skin care system developed by The International Dermal Institute.

Dermalogica story started in 1986, the force of change in the industry started in Los Angeles, circa 1983. Jane Wurwand, a tenured, United Kingdom-trained skin therapist new to the American “esthetician” .  For years, Dermalogica’s formulas have pioneered new standards for product performance. Using only the finest ingredients available, all Dermalogica products are non-comedogenic and contain no occlusive mineral oil or lanolin, no irritating artificial colors or fragrance, and no drying S.D. alcohol.

  • Special Cleansing Gel: wash at night time twice
  • Daily micro foliant powder: use every other day after cleanser for exfoliating your skin
  • Multi-active toner: use in the morning prior Super rich repair
  • Total eye care: put around on the bottom of your eyes after toner and before moisturizer
  • Super rich repair: use as moisturizer, use it after toner
  • Pure light spf 30: use in the morning after super rich repair
  • Multi vitamin power recovery mask: use it every week after exfoliation
  • Barier repair: is a type of moisturizer so you can use inter change with super rich repair
  • Contour mask: is a type of mask that you have to mix with water and then put on your face for about 40 min. do it every other week.

If you want to know more, you can go to this website: for more information.

Do it yourself nail designs – Purple Nail Slush

Do it yourself nail designs are a breeze and with a little of practice and techniques you can  achieve gorgeous looking nails.  This is the first set of designs call Purple Slush.  The design is simple and elegant.   Choosing the color and design of your nails are important, so choose colors that you like.

It’s important to use a brush with very thin tip to paint the outline of your nails.

Try painting one nail at a time, once you get the technique down move on to the next.

See below for a few photos of the Purple Slush.

Purple nail set 3

Nail Set Purple

What are the benefits of exfoliation or Acne, Dehydration, Aging, and Pigmentation skin types?

men facial care
Facial Skin Exfoliation

What are the benefits of exfoliation or Acne, Dehydration, Aging, and Pigmentation skin types?

The concept of stimulating the skin by exfoliation is not a new concept.  It is one of the oldest skin treatments developed and over the years different implements and ingredients have been used to exfoliate.

Hydroxy Acids is one of the popular method for exfoliation.  The era of Hydroxy Acids began in the 1990’s when there was a surge of popularity for their beneficial effects on skin, they were actually discovered in the early 1970’s.  When doctors found that certain naturally-occurring nontoxic substances called Alpha Hydroxy Acids, found in edible fruits and vegetables, had profound beneficial effects on the skin.

For Acne Skin: We know that there is an overproduction of sebum and dead cells that binds together in the follicle causing a blockage.  This is retained further because in acne skin, there is less of the enzyme cholesterol sulfatase due to fewer lamellar granules.  It is the lamellar granules that stimulate the enzyme to dissolve the NMF, allowing the cells to detach.  Creating a condition known as Retention Hyperkeratosis.  Hydroxy Acids mimic the enzymes in lamellar granules, dissolve the NMF and allow the cells to detach therefore clearing the congestion in the follicle.  They will also dissolve the desmosome protein linkages causing a burst in skin exfoliation. Continue reading “What are the benefits of exfoliation or Acne, Dehydration, Aging, and Pigmentation skin types?”